Daf Aircooled Front Oil Seal

This job was done on a club member's Daf 44, although the instructions hold for any of the aircooled engines. In a 200 mile trip to visit and do the job he lost over 1 1/2 litres of oil so it was definately due doing!

 

The seal dimensions are 48x65x10mm which equates to SKF number 18967.

 

To gain access you first remove the bumper:

Remove bumper

 

and then the front grille.  The bolts involved in this vary from model to model but are pretty self-explanatory when you look.

Grille removed

 

The centre of the impeller cowling simply levers off using a screwdriver to expose the impeller itself:

Impeller

 

Which is removed after undoing the three nyloc nuts in its centre:

Impeller removed

 

Next, the cowling is removed.  It's held by one bolt at the top, which also holds the ignition coil, two bolts at the bottom, and a total of 4 self-tapping screws that connect it to the cylinder shrouds:

Top cowling bolt

 

Bottom cowling bolt

 

Top Cowling Screw

 

Bottom cowling screw

 

The whole cowling then lifts out to reveal the oil cooler:

Cowling removed

 

 

The oil cooler has one inline pipe union:

Cooler return pipe

 

and one banjo connection.  The banjo bolt is wirelocked because it's not done up very tight and you really don't want it undoing from vibration!

Oil cooler banjo

 

There are also two bolts at the bottom (visible in the phots above) and one at the top.  Once these are undone the oil cooler will lift out.  Be ready for any oil left in it to spill!  At this point, if your fan belt looks anything like this then now is probably the time to replace it!

 

Dodgy fan belt!

 

Judging by the Daf marking and part number, this may well have been on there from new - about 35 years give or take a bit!

 

 

Having got this far, the pulley and hub has to be removed.  the book says to lock the flywheel using special tool blah-blah-blah in order to undo the crankshaft bolt.  Two problems here are that:

 

1) they assume the engine is out of the car and you can't get to the flywheel while it's still in there.

 

2) what exactly is a special tool blah-blah-blah and where do you get one now?

 

So, the next best thing is a piece of rope stuffed down a plug hole.  Go easy using this method and you should be fine:

 

Rope in plug hole

 

The crank bolt is only torqued to 58 lf/ft when fitted so should undo without too much effort.  You can then use a standard puller to remove the hub:

Using puller on hub

 

and reveal the oil seal:

Old oil seal

 

Check the sealing surface on the hub for damage and, if it's ok, smear a little oil on it to lubricate the seal as it's refitted:

Check the pulley seat

 

If it's worn then you may be able to compensate by fitting the new seal a little deeper into the block.  In this case the hub was fine so the new seal was tapped in flush with the block face:

New seal fitted

 

You can then start to reassemble.  To refit the pulley, place it on the end of the crankshaft, making sure that the dowel on the crank lines up with the slot inside the pulley.  Then gently wind it into place using the crank bolt:

 

Use bolt to refit pulley

 

Torque the bolt to 58 lb/ft (3 1/2 white knuckles on a 1/2 inch rachet drive)

 

The oil cooler is next.  Work it into position and fit the three mounting bolts finger tight.  Do the union up tight and the banjo connector to 14.5 lb/ft ("quite firm" or about 3/4 of a white knuckle).  Wirelock the banjo bolt to the body of the banjo connector:

Wirelocking of banjo bolt

 

Then continue reassembly to the point where the impeller is refitted.  At this point, remember to remove the rope from the plug hole and refit the plug and then start the engine.  All being well, there should be no leaks visible and you can put all the bodywork back in place ready to enjoy drip-free motoring!

 

 

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